Aug 02, 2018 · So lets rule out alternator spinning too slowly being the cause. The fluctuation only happens when I'm at idle with headlights on. If I turn on the fogs and heater blower the power fluctuation goes away and I return to ~14.3v. Just replaced the 3 wire pig tail with a better one (sense wire = 12 gauge now). indy2000 Registered Joined Oct 30, 2001. "/>

Alternator voltage fluctuates at idle

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    Step 3 - Cleaning the Valve Spray the unit with choke/carburetor cleaner and use a cleaning rag to remove all carbon buildup from the idle air control valve. Work the spindle back and forth to clean away all deposits found there. Also clean the throttle body while the butterfly valve is exposed. Step 4 - Reassembling the Unit. So I was getting my car tuned and my tuner noticed that the "BAT" value in K-pro jumps between ~13.0 and ~13.9 volts every few seconds, no matter engine load or rpm. It only does this with the engine running. With engine off it reads ~12.5, which is straight off the battery.

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    It's different with an alternator and with todays cars. You can spike the electronics very easily. The battery is not just to start the car, it is also acts as a big capacitor to eliminate and absorb those spikes. V Velocity09 Registered Joined May 4, 2005 70 Posts Discussion Starter · #5 · Aug 5, 2011 Bad News. The alternator was probably charging at 14.6, but maybe you had the headlights on or A/C blower running or even something small such as the PCM changing the duty cycle of the injectors so the voltage dropped that .2 volts- all perfectly fine. The voltage shouldn't be drastically bouncing around from 14-16 that quickly, though. Most alternators that are charging properly should produce a voltage of about 13.8 to 14.2 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. Many Asian vehicles, for example, have higher charging voltages of around 15 volts. What are signs of a bad alternator?. I just installed a 200 AMP PA performance alternator in my 1990 5.0 This should put out well over 12.5 volts at idle....In all reviews and installs this is shown. Everything was. Now the system charges but at idle (stock rpm) it fluctuates like mad. Battery voltage swings from 14.5v to 12.5v pretty quickly, with all the lights dimming and rpm dipping. I have no. A wide variety of issues can prompt an engine surge. The problem may involve an annoying change (up/down) of engine speed while cruising at a steady pace, a low drop (or even cut-out) at idle or when approaching a stop, a wild high engine speed of several thousand rpm followed by a drop to near zero, etc. • MAF connector loose/intermittent. actually 13.5 ish wouldn't be too low when idling, the resting voltage of the battery is 12.6-12.8 volts when no current being drawn or charged, 13.6-13.7 is the normal float charge level which is when the battery is at a total balance, that is to say any internal losses and being cancelled out and a battery can sit at that voltage happily for. If the voltage goes down (compared to off) when the engine runs at idle, then the charging system is pulling the battery down somehow. If the voltagte is low with the engine off, then there is an additional load in the circuit between the meter and the battery, either in the voltage feed or the ground path. Or the battery is failing.

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What if both command higher voltage- the voltage jumps and they both respond with lower voltage causing your voltage to 'flicker' as they are locked in this loop. A good solution: gas pulley on the second making it the lead and diesel pulley on the first. This way the voltage comes up on the gas alt first and the diesel one kicks in harder when the gas unit. Per observation, there are two pattern when it fluctuates 1. after like 30 mins-ish motorway drive, somehow the voltage will drop suddenly (like to 12.8/13.0) and come up again back on 13.9/14.0V in a second or so. With that single blip the dashboard will beep because all engine light and ABS/VDC faults will be on though car can still drive. Step 3. Place a small load on the battery by turning the key to the ON position for 15 seconds. Turn the voltmeter on and turn the dial to 20 ohms. Place the black lead from the voltmeter on the negative battery post and the red lead on the positive post. The voltage should read 12 volts without the engine running. Other causes for a flickering alternator light could be a bad ground. The ground could be where it attaches to the intake manifold, to include the screws, and the main battery cable negative to frame connection, including where it bolts to the frame. D Dexter520 Registered Joined Feb 17, 2019 7 Posts Discussion Starter · #12 · Oct 29, 2020. alternator output voltage. Alternator 12.6 volts DC at 700 rpm engine idle, 2115 alternator rpm. 21 amps output at 12.6 volts dc. No current is flowing in or out of the battery. Aug 02, 2018 · So lets rule out alternator spinning too slowly being the cause. The fluctuation only happens when I'm at idle with headlights on. If I turn on the fogs and heater blower the power fluctuation goes away and I return to ~14.3v. Just replaced the 3 wire pig tail with a better one (sense wire = 12 gauge now). indy2000 Registered Joined Oct 30, 2001. Good alternators measure the voltage at the battery terminals and use whatever voltage at the alternator that is required to obtain good voltage at the battery terminals. So, as a summary, you should be measuring the voltage at the battery terminals. There the voltage should be between 14.1 VDC and 14.5 VDC. CamSweet said: You will read battery voltage on the end of an open wire, resistor or not. Without current flow, there is no voltage drop across a resistor. Check your voltage again at the coil with the wire hooked up to assure that it is 12V. If not, minimize doubt and run a new wire. Cam. Doc here, imp:. Went out jumped it started up but notice that the headlights and dash lights were fluctuating at idle if I wrapped it up it did smooth out somewhat. Put a voltage meter across. Mar 28, 2017 · VOLTAGE & CURRENT CHECKS. The actual output voltage produced by the alternator will vary depending on temperature and load, and will usually be about 1.5 to 2 volts higher than battery voltage. At idle, most charging systems produce 13.8 to 15.3 volts with no lights or accessories on. You can check the charging voltage by touching the test .... Jan 5, 2019 #1 Big Rob71 Bobtail Member 40 5 Oct 14, 2016 0 Have a 2015 voltage keeps fluctuates between 13 and just under 14. Usually it sits at 14.2 to 14.4. I have replaced the batteries and alternator and still same problem. Replaced fuses to battery box leafs coming from batteries this morning, still same problem. What could be the problem?. If you disconnect the cables at both the alternator & battery positive terminals, you can check the resistance of the cable. It must be less than 1 ohm. While you are down there you can check the resistance of the relevant earth cables to chassis is zero ohms. rnettleship Registered. If you have the Valeo alternator and are able to remove it yourself, the job should cost you all of about $25 for a new regulator (it is attached to the back of the alternator, under a plastic cover). Read my post in that forum for more detailed information. This also solved my bouncing idle... or most of it anyway (it now fluctuates maybe 50rpms at most, as opposed to 200-300 before the.

Start with a voltage check at battery. Check battery cables and alt amps out put and voltage. Then see if voltage is holding inside to everything. MT drdd 08-08-2007, 09:01 PM I'd consider replacing your belt tensioner.
So I was getting my car tuned and my tuner noticed that the "BAT" value in K-pro jumps between ~13.0 and ~13.9 volts every few seconds, no matter engine load or rpm. It only does this with the engine running. With engine off it reads ~12.5, which is straight off the battery.
Mar 28, 2017 · VOLTAGE & CURRENT CHECKS. The actual output voltage produced by the alternator will vary depending on temperature and load, and will usually be about 1.5 to 2 volts higher than battery voltage. At idle, most charging systems produce 13.8 to 15.3 volts with no lights or accessories on. You can check the charging voltage by touching the test ...
You'll see that the tester cables are (mostly) red and black. Connect the red one to the "+" battery pole and the black one to the "-"pole. You'll immediately get a reading of the battery voltage. If everything is OK the battery voltage should be around 12.2 to 12.7 volts, depending on the condition of the battery.
I have a 1971 Volvo B20E running MS2Extra using a Bosch 2 wire idle air valve in place of the original Djet thermal auxiliary air valve. The Bosch 2 wire valve position is sensitive to supply voltage and I have a correction factor of about 3% per volt. Generally, everything works just fine except during fairly cold weather starts. When the ...